By Jamie Brisick

Conversation with William Finnegan

August 13, 2019

Self Discovery for Social Survival

I was an ecstatic cowboy the day that director Chris Gentile asked me to write a VO script for his film-in-progress, Self Discovery for Social Survival. I was even more ecstatic when he told me that Jonas Mekas would do the narration. I was not in the room when Jonas read, but according to Chris he sipped wine and nailed most of the VO on first take.

The film is out. Link below.

June 21, 2019

So Long, Marianne - Affidavit

Looking Sideways - podcast

Disaster, tragedy, catastrophe, deathgrief – these are the concealed details of life, hidden in plain sight in the hope we never have to experience them.

The truth, of course, is that we will all be tested by such experiences in our lives. Until we do, a couple of questions loom. How will we cope? How can we square these experiences, and move forward?

June 7, 2019

How We Walk Through The Fire

The text message came just before 7 a.m.: “Mandatory evacuation for the entire city of Malibu.” I grabbed my car keys, wallet, phone, laptop, writing stuff, and a change of clothes. It was Friday, November 9th. I was not worried. Malibu gets a fire nearly every year. Never do they creep down the Santa Monica Mountains, leap the Pacific Coast Highway, and take out homes where I live, in Point Dume.

But this one did. And it took out my home with an almost personal vengeance. Watching KTLA news with a friend in his Venice Beach studio the following evening, he pointed at the screen. “That looks like your house.” The camera zoomed in. “That’s definitely your house.” The shot—a firefighter blasting water at my inflamed bedroom—would play on repeat throughout the weekend. I became a kind of poster child for the Woolsey Fire.


December 1, 2018

American Beauty

He found himself on hands and knees searching for what he thought was a small white pill but was really the Grateful Dead parking lot scene, circa Terrapin Station.

November 5, 2018

Halloween Party 2018

At first we thought the Harvey Weinstein costume was in poor taste
Then Wonder Woman showed up
Then Joan of Arc
Then Angela Davis
Then Anita Hill
Benazir Bhutto
Buffy the Vampire Slayer
Then what we thought was Sinead O’Connor
But after hurling a bottle across the room was clearly Rose McGowan
I remember very little after that
A big dogpile
Many thuds
Lots of broken glass

November 2, 2018

X-Rated Actors in Search of PG-Rated Roles

The Life Sentence of the Ex-Pro Surfer

September 28, 2018

The Dazzling Blackness

I’m thinking about Brazilian president Getúlio Vargas, who shot himself in the heart in 1954; I’m thinking about Pepê Lopes, who died in a hang gliding accident while trying to win a second world title in Japan in 1991; I’m thinking about Aryton Senna, the Formula One racer who died on lap seven of the San Marino Grand Prix in Italy in 1994. I am not thinking about death explicitly, but death hangs over all of this.


July 4, 2018

Art and Ape Coalesce Magnificently in W Magazine

It’s the year 2057 and from 1 million miles away Earth appears as a black-and-blue marble with wispy streaks of gray. From 10,000 feet, the Art House comes into view, a colossal concrete fortress complete with a miraculously green lawn, shimmering swimming pool the size of a small lake, and gleaming white patio that brings to mind the ice-skating rink at Rockefeller Center. The house sits on the edge of the Pacific Ocean, which is still as vibrantly blue today as it was 100 years ago. The surrounding area, though, looks like Aleppo circa 2016.


August 15, 2017

O Malibu

Malibu, you sucked on my finger, riveted me with your stories of handcuffs and hot chocolate, and left me lying face down in the sand.


July 29, 2017

Symphony Space, July 17

We are proud to be presenting Jamie Brisick, a prolific contributor to the culture of surfing, for an evening of surf literature, film, and photography.

Jamie Brisick has spent more than four decades deeply immersed in surfing, first as a professional surfer in the '80s and '90s, and since then as a writer, photographer, and filmmaker. An author of several books, an editor of international surf magazines, and a Fulbright scholar, he is an astute observer of the culture. In conversation with Chris Gentile, founder of Pilgrim Surf + Supply, and through a selection of his photographs, Jamie will discuss his life in surfing, as well as show excerpts from a few of his favorite surf films, which include Jack McCoy's StormridersGreg Schell's Chasing the Lotus, and Alby Falzon's Morning of the Earth.

Jamie Brisick’s books include Becoming Westerly: Surf Champion Peter Drouyn's Transformation into Westerly WindinaRoman & Williams: Things We MadeWe Approach Our Martinis With Such High ExpectationsHave Board, Will Travel: The Definitive History of Surf, Skate, and Snow, and The Eighties at Echo Beach. His writings and photographs have appeared in The Surfer's JournalThe New York Times, and The Guardian. He was the editor of Surfing magazine from 1998-2000, and is presently the global editor of Huck. In 2008 he was awarded a Fulbright Fellowship. He lives in Los Angeles.

For more information and tickets please click here

June 25, 2017


In 1999 I met Marie in the southwest of France. Tall, straight blond hair that cascaded down her back, rapturous blue eyes, mischievous big smile—she got a lot of attention from men, and I felt lucky to have hers. We were at the Seaside Bar in Hossegor, both of us in town for the Rip Curl Pro, an international surf contest. I was writing about it; she was doing marketing/P.R. for her employer, Oakley Europe.

Over drinks we talked about Magnum photographers, Brazilian writers, and the loutishness of the pro-surfing tribe. She told me she loved bullfighting, that she anxiously awaited the corrida de toros season (April-October) so she could spend weekends in Seville, where she wore flamenco dresses and occasionally danced on tables. “There’s this torero who trains for the corridas by going to the beach at night with his cape,” she said. “He pretends that the waves are bulls.”

Marie lived in Paris, in the 16th, on Rue Passy—“really bourgeois, but also really beautiful. Catherine Deneuve is my neighbor.” She wrote her number on a cocktail napkin. “If you’re in Paris any time soon, come visit.”

I was there three days later. We met at a sushi restaurant, had an excellent dinner and lots of sake, and went for a stroll. On the steps of the Trocadéro, the Eiffel Tower presiding over us, we kissed for the first time. At her one-bedroom, minimalist apartment that smelled of roses and strong cheese, we had sex.


June 23, 2017

A Life in Surfing - Symphony Space, July 27

Jamie Brisick has spent more than four decades deeply immersed in surfing, first as a professional surfer in the '80s and '90s, and since then as a writer, photographer, and filmmaker. An author of several books, an editor of international surf magazines, and a Fulbright scholar, he is an astute observer of the culture. In conversation with Chris Gentile, founder of Pilgrim Surf + Supply, and through a selection of his photographs, Jamie will discuss his life in surfing, as well as show excerpts from a few of his favorite surf films, which include Jack McCoy's StormridersGreg Schell's Chasing the Lotus, and Alby Falzon's Morning of the Earth.



June 9, 2017

Surf’s Way Up

As I climbed out of the bathtub-warm Indian Ocean and onto the deck of the motorboat, one man grabbed my surfboard, another handed me a bottle of chilled water, and a third doused me in a fresh-water shower then handed me a fluffy white towel. Before I’d finished drying off, a fourth man offered me a plate of sliced cold coconut. I felt a cross between a prizefighter in his corner and a Hollywood starlet between takes on a big-budget film.


February 22, 2017

And Then I See A Darkness

Thirty minutes and half a bottle of Pinot Noir into their first date he stood up, walked over to her side of the table, placed his hands on her shoulders, and whispered into her ear: “So here’s how it works. You’re trying to get DNA from my body over to your body. Blood, cum, saliva, hair, finger and toenails, a hacked off pinky—all fair game.”

[I’m unsure whether this story takes off in a Last Tango In Paris direction or whether she splashes her drink in his face, but I do see a later flashback scene where our male protagonist meets a cute ponytailed girl in kindergarten who invites him to play Hide and Seek. The Hide and Seek games carry on through elementary school, getting bigger and more elaborate, covering their entire suburban neighborhood. They never really talk. We see them climb over walls into random backyards, bury themselves under blue tarps in alleyways. The flashback ends with male protagonist at the breakfast table with Dad. Dad reads the paper. He furrows his brow, reads aloud: “How awful. A fifth grade girl from your school was run over by a car yesterday.”]

November 16, 2016

Surfing World

Thrilled to talk writing, surfing, elephant wrestling (always keep a stash of cayenne pepper in your back pocket) w friend and colleague Sean Doherty in the latest issue of Surfing World. @seano888 @surfingworld ��@markonorati Thanks fellas.

October 28, 2016

Identity Is A Slippery Game

Identity is a slippery game. We conduct ourselves one way with one person, another way with another person, and yet a third way with yet a third person. We contain multitudes. We are kaleidoscopic. And yet we are forever stuck with ourselves. Which can be exhausting. And suffocating. And imprisoning.

Which leads us to Halloween. How delicious to put on a mask and be someone or something else! How totally invigorating to be, say, an honest investment banker by day, but Pablo Escobar, or a zip tie-bound Kim Kardashian, or a castrated Donald Trump on October 31st!

My longtime friend Marcus Dash talks a whole lot, often nonsensically, occasionally brilliantly. 37 years old, married, two young kids, Marcus remembers Halloween as one of the highlights of his childhood. And he never stopped dressing up—even through high school, college, and in his early years as a restaurateur in New York he played with his persona, blurring, obfuscating, slithering. He has a lot to say on the subject, as I found out over a recent drink at a noisy and brightly lit gastropub in Brooklyn.

“Escape has become a big theme in adulthood. There’s less wiggle room, what with the wife, kids, and mortgage. I see friends try to escape in dangerous ways—drugs, alcohol, double lives and all that that implies. It’s like we’re just looking for people to see us in a fresh way; it’s like we’re chained to our past. And though we might wake up in the morning with the intention to start anew, or to reinvent, or to kill off the sides of ourselves that we’re tired of, or that don’t serve us, the people close to us, our wives, our kids, our families, they want consistency. They might be coming from pure love, but still they’re wanting us to stay who we are. They might even be holding us back. ‘Cause let’s be honest, it’s scary to see your spouse or partner make a radical change!

I’m a big fan of that movie ‘The Passenger.’ Jack Nicholson’s a married man, a documentary filmmaker, on assignment in Africa. Not a bad life, but when the opportunity to fake his own death and assume the identity of a stranger falls into his lap he takes it. It’s like Eeny, meeny, miny, moe, I’ll take any life other than my own! Jack speaks for a lot us—in most of his roles, but especially in ‘The Passenger.’

In college I used to fantasize about my funeral.  I’d see my ex-girlfriends there, weeping, sniffling, bringing Kleenex to their nose—and there were hot ones! I did well at college. And then I’d see my dad and my brother, and my dad nudging his elbow into my brother—‘Kid did well, didn’t he? Probably better than his old man even.’ And then my brother going, ‘Shush!’

Anyway, that’s a real long rant, probably more than you bargained for, but long and short of it is this: Hell yeah, I love Halloween. I dress up for Halloween. I even wear strange outfits when it’s not Halloween, stuff I’d normally never wear, stuff that presents me as someone I’m not, false advertising if you know what I mean. Masks, costumes, uniforms—they’re not really about who you’re playing, they’re about who you’re escaping. It’s like a drug-free, airplane-free, mistress-free vacation from the monotony of your own life. It’s like a refresh button—and you don’t take down the whole family in the process…”

Marcus went on like this for a long while, mixing wisdom with hyperbole. He drank ginger ale—he’s been sober for nearly five years—otherwise I would’ve thought he was a bit tipsy. He told me he looks forward to taking his kids trick-or-treating on Halloween. He said there’s a neighborhood not far from his Williamsburg home where they give out premium candy.

Who is he going to be this year?

“Well there are some great options, aren’t there?” he said, chugging the last of what must have been his seventh ginger ale. “I was toying with something anthropomorphic, like a polar icecap that’s both melting and weeping, like it just hates that we human monsters have ensured its demise. But then I’m also thinking Edward Snowden. I’m real afraid of this whole transparency thing. You know me, I love the veils.”

October 28, 2016

Florida Surf Film Festival Hosts Jamie Brisick Journalism Workshop

On November 19, 2016, Florida Surf Film Festival will host a journalism workshop at Atlantic Center for the Arts by Jamie Brisick, writer, photographer, and director. He surfed on the ASP world tour from 1986 to 1991, and has since documented surf culture extensively. His books include We Approach Our Martinis With Such High Expectations and Have Board, Will Travel: The Definitive History of Surf, Skate, and Snow. His writings and photographs have appeared in The Surfer’s JournalThe New York Times, and The Guardian. He was the editor of Surfing magazine from 1998-2000. In 1981 he surrendered his virginity to a brown-skinned eighteen-year-old in a dinghy hotel room in Cayucos, California. Blue Oyster Cult’s “Burnin’ For You” played on the staticky clock radio. The smell of Marlboro Reds wafted from the stained bedspread. It did not last long. In 2008 he was awarded a Fulbright Fellowship to Japan. He lives in New York City, travels frequently, and loves his 6’1” Channel Islands Warp.

Artist’s Statement: 

For nearly 25 years I’ve been writing about surfing and documenting surf culture at large. It continues to fascinate me, and I continue to find new ways into it. My approach to the workshop is less ‘Journalism 101’ and more about personal expression and growth. We’ll have only one day, but by the end of it I hope I can help you to go deeper as a writer, photographer, and/or filmmaker.

Agenda for November 19th:

9:00AM – Intros

9:30AM – Media and Journalism in the Industry – Then and Now.

10:00AM – Structure, POV, Interviewing, Recording, Note-taking, Outlining, Drafting, Workshopping, etc.

12:30PM – Lunch

1:15PM – Writing exercise

1:30PM – Voluntary readings and workshop

2:30PM – Photography and its relationship with surf journalism

3:30PM – Publication tips and contacts – Relationships, taking anything you can get, paying dues.

4:30PM – Documentary filmmaking for dummies – Or whatever…

5:00PM – Wrap

6:00PM – 2nd Night of the Florida Surf Film Festival Begins

Please submit the information requested, and one of our staff will contact you about workshop openings, required non-refundable deposit, travel advice, and be available for all other questions.

The cost of the workshop is $95.  This does NOT include a pass for the Florida Surf Film Festival.  If you would like to include a discounted, two-night patron pass for the Florida Surf Film Festival, the added cost is $100.  This includes a 2016 FSFF t-shirt, FSFF Tervis Tumbler, Clancy’s Cantina dinner both nights, and a Monster Energy Gift Bag. Check the appropriate box in the application to take advantage of the discounted patron pass.

If you’d like to stay at Atlantic Center for the Arts during the festival, we have small efficiency-style motel rooms for $69.50/night, including all taxes.  If you’d like to stay three nights, November 17-20th, you are eligible for a 20% discount for a total of $167.40, including taxes.  Please contact Stephanie Stallard at sstallard@atlanticcenterforthearts.org for reservations.

APPLY HERE – Deadline is November 4, 2016

August 11, 2016