WRESTLING ELEPHANTS

By Jamie Brisick

IF YOU WANT TO LIVE LONGER…

Cruz Hernandez (3 May 1878 – 8 March 2007)

“If you want to live longer, you should—in addition to the obvious: eating less and losing weight—move to the country, not take work home, do what you enjoy and feel good about yourself, get a pet, learn to relax, live in the moment, laugh, listen to music, sleep 6 to 7 hours a night; be blessed with long-lived parents and grandparents (35 percent of your longevity is due to genetic factors); be married, hug, hold hands, have sex regularly, have a lot of children, get along with your mother, accept your children, nurture your grandchildren; be well-educated, stimulate your brain, learn new things; be optimistic, channel your anger in a positive way, not always have to be right; not smoke; use less salt; have chocolate occasionally, eat a Mediterranean diet of fruit, vegetables, olive oil, fish, and poultry, drink green tea and moderate amounts of red wine; exercise; have goals, take risks; confide in a friend, not be afraid to seek psychological counseling; be a volunteer, have a role in the community; attend church, find God.”

—from The Thing About Life Is That One Day You’ll Be Dead by David Shields

April 11, 2011

I WAS GOOD IN THE EIGHTIES…

In 1984 I had Stiff Little Fingers songs swirling in my head, star-spangled Quiksilver boardshorts dangling from my hips, a shelf full of trophies, a head full of ASP pro tour ambitions, a galloping crush on a wiry blond who reduced me to stutters, recently divorced parents, a mild Pong addiction, a black Peugeot roadbike that felt winged, and the “pride and confidence” of the Western Surfing Association resting on my shoulders –

April 4, 2011

BURNING BOATS

If it’s not Somalian pirates in the Arabian Sea, it’s locals li’dat burning shark tour boats in Haleiwa Harbor…

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March 31, 2011

ANOTHER BEING ENTIRELY

“Sometimes my sex seemed to me another being entirely, a stupid animal living parasitically upon me, swelling and dwindling according to autonomous appetites, anchored to my flesh with claws I could not detach. Why do I have to carry you about from woman to woman, I asked: simply because you were born without legs? Would it make any difference to you if you were rooted in a cat or a dog instead of in me?”

—J.M. Coetzee, Waiting For The Barbarians

March 14, 2011

I’LL ALWAYS DO MY BEST FOR HER, ON THAT I GIVE MY WORD

March 10, 2011

I OFFERED UP MY INNOCENCE AND GOT REPAID IN SCORN

March 10, 2011

WHERE IT’S ALWAYS SAFE AND WARM

March 10, 2011

SLAVES TO THE RHYTHM

February 28, 2011

TRANSURFER

O australiano Peter Drouyn foi um dois mais importantes nomes do surf mundial por duas décadas. Agora, às vésperas de completar 60 anos, ressurgiu após longo sumiço. Virou Westerly Windina, senhora elegante e atrevida. E nunca foi tão feliz.

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January 31, 2011

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