In January, I spent two weeks on the North Shore of Oahu, a trip I’ve made nearly every winter since 1982. One bright Tuesday morning, I headed out for my routine surf check. Known as the “Seven-Mile Miracle,” this stretch of coastline is home to several of the world’s most hallowed surf breaks. The trade winds were light and balmy; the swell was up: 12- to 18-feet out of the northwest.
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